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Direct Vent Fireplace Installation 
This is an example of one type of installation. Each manufacturer's installations can differ. Please review your owners manual before beginning installation. Click here for another version of direct vent installation.
This example will show how to install a direct-vent gas fireplace that needs no chimney, has a high-tech vent that sends the hot gases out and keeps the warm air in -- and works as a heater as well. Once again, check your owners manual as your installation may vary.
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| Materials:
Vent cap and interior fire stop
90-degree elbow and pipe extension
Stove cement
High temperature caulk
Regular silicone caulk
Dimensional lumber
Fireplace kit
Mantle kit
Sponge
Small bucket
| Tools:
Grinder with segmented blade
Reciprocating saw
Circular saw
Long 3/4" spade bit
Wrenches
Tin snips
Chisels
Rubber float
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Notes:
Check to see what building permits you need and follow accordingly.
This project requires both gas and electrical supply lines, so we strongly recommend you have professionals do the hookups before you begin. Once the fireplace is in place, have them return and finish the job.
 Select fireplace and mantle kit, and determine location in room. On the show, a unit was installed that is "heater" rated, which means you can use it to heat a couple of good-sized rooms. It comes with a remote control thermostat that will control the temperature in the room without wiring in the walls. The mantle kit included a mantle, surround and hearth extension.
Gather your tools and materials.
Clear out the room.
Make sure you are familiar with the manual and if you have any questions call your local dealer.
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Setting in the Hearth Support
Get the fireplace aligned correctly by finding the center point and making a mark.
Use a level and transfer the center mark to the floor.
Temporarily set the two legs into place. Special cleats hold the legs to the hearth support.
Set the mantle header into place. Cleats on the header fit over the top of the legs.
With the mantle temporarily set up for alignment, you can see exactly where to make the cuts for the baseboard.
 Mark a line across the top so you will know where the wall cleat should go.
Cut the baseboard away. You can use a reciprocating saw, but a grinder with a segmented blade is a little easier for this task.
Set the hearth support back into place making sure it is centered. Re-mark the center line on the wall.
Center the firebox on the support. 
Figure out where to make the hole for the vent.
Expert Tip: The system is sealed so it is energy efficient because it's not drawing air from in the home and it doesn't affect the air quality in the home.
Once the elbow is in position, mark the wall to indicate where you need to cut the hole to the outside.
 Move the unit out of the way and make a 10" square mark. The firestop goes through and will give you plenty of clearance for the vent pipe. |
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Inserting the Vent Pipe
Use a drywall saw to cut the hole.
Tip: Normally there are no pipes in an outside wall, but use caution anyway when cutting.
Put wood blocking around the hole and drill it into place.
Drill 4 holes in the corners using a 3/4" spade bit to show where to cut the exterior wall. 
Expert Tip: Use an extra long paddle bit so you can be sure you get a nice straight cut all the way through the wall.
Install the fire stop. It fits snugly into the opening -- attach it with four screws in the corners.
Expert tip: Make sure you use solid lumber to fill up the space between the walls. Hold the pieces in place with drywall screws.
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 Put a bead of stove gasket cement around the internal vent pipe. This will help form an airtight seal when the elbow goes on.
The elbow twists on and locks into place. 
To connect the vent pipe to the vent cap, attach a short section called the termination cap.
Set the fireplace back in place and install the vent pipe so that it fits through the wall.
Outside, fit the vent cap so that is slips over the vent pipe. Cut the siding away from beneath the vent cap. Trace around the cap to mark where to cut.
Use a circular saw with the depth set shallow to cut the siding away from the opening. Avoid cutting into the sheathing.
After the opening is cut, screw the vent cap to the wall. It should sit flush against the surface.
Place a bead of caulk around the vent cap to seal the edges and keep the weather out. 
Have the electrician and plumber come back to do the hookups. The job should take approximately two hours.
Note: Remember, gas and electrical hookups need extra caution and most municipalities require permits that do not allow homeowners to make these connections. It can take a while to get an inspection, so allow time for that to happen.
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| Seal the opening with high temperature silicone caulk.
Note: High temperature silicone caulk can be found at most hardware stores or home centers. It is usually red or black so that the inspectors will know that you used the right kind of caulk and is up to 600 degrees for various applications.
Assembling the Surround
 The first piece to go up is the header on the back wall. It will support the mantle.
Install the hearth extension with tile overlay. Lay the tile surround on a soft surface and assemble the two side pieces and the top piece loosely with steel connecting plate -- just hand tighten the plate down using the nuts and washers supplied. The parts are labeled with letters so make sure A goes with A and B to B. 
Carefully set the whole assembly on the fireplace. Set it so the tile sits on the firebox and rests flush against the front trim. |
Install the cleat that will hold up the mantle -- making sure it is on a stud. If you can't screw into studs, be sure and use wall anchors.
 After the top piece is centered, snug the side pieces against the side of the fireplace. Finish tightening the nuts, making sure that the joint between the legs and header is even.
Use the 3/4" wood blocks behind the metal backing to push forward to ensure an even joint to the hearth and screw into place.
Install the trim piece -- it is adjustable and designed to fit most gas fireplaces. Self-tapping screws should be all you need to attach it to the firebox, or you can drill pilot holes if necessary.
Slide the legs over the ends of the base and the outside edges of the surround.
 Drop the header into between the legs. Make sure the header is square to the legs, then screw through pre-drilled holes in the header to hold them together.
Note: Don't over tighten the hold down screws or you could crack the bracket.
Press on the front to hold the leg up against the wall and then screw through the leg into the cleat. This holds the unit in place.
Four joints (two at the top where the joints come together and two at the bottom) need to be grouted. Mix the grout with latex additive -- a little at a time until it is the consistency of peanut butter.
Note: Wear safety protection when grouting.
Put a little grout on the edge of the float and gently press it into the seams.
Note: Grout normally turns a lighter shade when it dries. It takes a few days for it to dry completely.
After the grout sets up, use a damp sponge to smooth the seam and wipe the tile clean.
 To install the fireplace accessories, plug the fan blower into an outlet. There is no need to screw it in because it is held down by a couple of magnets.
Note: The fan circulates warm air from the fireplace back into the room.
The remote control receiver just sets into the lower grill area. Make a few simple connections and plug it into the AC outlet.
Put in the glowing embers.
Note: The embers should be replaced once a year with normal usage.
Install the logs according to the manufacturer's instructions. 
Attach the glass cover. Four spring clips in the corners hold it in place.
Put metal mesh screen over the glass to prevent anyone from touching the hot glass.
Finish with the air deflector and a cover for the lower grill area that snaps into place.
Pin nail the mantle shelf. 
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